Sunday, April 30: We had to work six days this past week, Monday-Saturday; the Saturday was to make up for one of the Golden Week holidays we’ll miss in the coming week. Actually, Saturday was one of the official holidays, as April 29 is Showa Day, which honors the birthday of Emperor Hirohito, the reigning Emperor before, during, and after World War II (from 1926 – 1989). Also part of Golden Week are three other holidays: Constitution Memorial Day, on May 3, to commemorate the country’s constitution, which came into effect on May 3, 1947; Arbor Day, also known as Greenery Day or Midori no Hi, on May 4, which became a holiday simply because it falls between two other holidays (Japanese holiday law states that a day that falls between two holidays will also be a holiday); and finally Children’s Day on May 5, a day set aside to respect children’s personalities and to celebrate their happiness. It was formerly known as Boys’ Day; families prayed for the health and future success of their sons by hanging up carp streamers and displaying samurai dolls, both symbolizing strength, power and success in life. Now the celebration is for all children.
When I lived in China, I also had to work a couple of Saturdays to make up for holidays. I don’t really understand this Asian mentality: how is something considered a holiday if you don’t truly get it off? 🙂
So after 6 days of work, with only Sunday off before having to return to work on Monday, I debate whether I should rest or venture out. Because I’m me, of course I venture out, to follow Walking Tour 1 from Tokyo: 29 Walks in the World’s Mostly Exciting City: Marunouchi, The Imperial Palace and Hibiya Park.
Marunouchi means “Within the Moats;” at one time it housed the mansions of the daimyo most favored by the Tokugawa shoguns. For 260 years, the most powerful military leaders of Japan occupied this area.
It takes me nearly an hour and a half to get to Tokyo Station, where the walk begins. The red-brick Renaissance-style station was opened in 1914, and was meant as a memorial for Japan’s victory over Russia in the Russo-Japanese War of 1904-1905. It was used only by royalty (Tokyo: 29 Walks).
Tokyo Station
From the western side of Tokyo Station, I head west, with the Marunouchi Building to the left and the Sin-Marunouchi Building to the right; both boast chic restaurants, fashionable shops and high-end offices. I keep heading west until I reach Hibiya-dori, which runs along Babasaki-bari (Moat in Front of the Horse Grounds) and the beginning of the Imperial Palace Outer Gardens.
The moat’s unusual name come from a 1635 display of horsemanship presented by a delegation from the then dependent kingdom of Korea to the shogun. On the other side of the moat are the Imperial Palace Outer Gardens.
first view of the moat
Before entering the Imperial Palace Outer Garden, I walk south down Hibiya-dori until I come to the corner of the moat; at this point I turn around and head north, noting the important buildings along the moat, but not quite knowing which building is which because of the Japanese signs.
the corner of palace grounds
Below is the Imperial Theater, which opened in 1911 and was the first major Western-style theater in Tokyo.
Imperial Theater (Teikoku Gekijo)
DN Tower 21, formerly the Dai Ichi Insurance Building, was built in 1938 in what was the style favored by authoritarian governments of that period. In the original building, from September 15, 1945 until April 11, 1951, General Douglas MacArthur, called the “Blue-eyed Shogun” by the Japanese, had his headquarters as the military and civilian representative of the Allied forces at the end of World War II. I don’t take a picture of this building.
The Meiji Mutual Life Insurance Building sits where the shogun’s fire department was once located. They had a thankless and often unsuccessful job putting out the numerous fires that broke out in Tokyo. In the Long Sleeves Fire of 1657, even the shogun’s castle was consumed and destroyed by fire.
Meiji Mutual Life Insurance Co. Building
Looking lengthwise along the moat
looking to the northeast along the moat
I follow the bridge leading into the Outer Gardens; these lie in front of the walls of the palace grounds. I’m greeted by the 1897 bronze equestrian statue of Kusunoki Masashige, created by order of the Meiji government to promote the government’s new creed of loyalty to the Imperial House and the emperor. The government emphasized the need to be ready to sacrifice oneself for emperor and nation. Kusunoki had these virtues: he defended Emperor Go-Daigo and his imperial prerogatives in the 1300s and then committed seppuku, or ceremonial suicide, after he failed defending the emperor against Ashikaga Takauji’s usurpation of power in 1336.
Kusunoki Masashige Statue
Kusunoki Masashige Statue
I continue my walk north past some unusual pine trees at the northeast end of the Outer Garden.
Strange trees in the Imperial Palace Outer Garden
tree shadows
In the 1960s, the Wadakura Fountain Park was added to the Outer Gardens to celebrate the wedding of the then crown prince (now Akihito, reigning emperor of Japan, who will be renamed Emperor Heisei upon his death).
Wadakura Fountain Park
At the end of the Outer Garden near Wadakura Fountain Park, another moat separates the palace walls from the public park; Tatsumi-Yagura and the Visitor’s Center sit on one corner. Today’s Imperial Palace is located on raised ground with walls of huge stones brought by boat in the 1600s from the Izu Peninsula some 60 miles southwest of Tokyo. In 1873 the last of the Tokugawa buildings burned down, and the emperor and empress were forced to move to the Akasaka Palace Grounds.
Tatsumi-Yagura
The public is allowed on to the palace grounds only twice a year: on the emperor’s December 23rd birthday and at the start of the New Year on January 2. On December 23, the emperor greets the public from the balcony of the Kyuden (Hall of State); on the New Year holiday, the imperial family greets the public from the same balcony.
Tatsumi-Yagura
More interesting trees
When the public is allowed into the palace grounds, they enter over the 1888 Nijubashi Bridge. The most photogenic place in the Outer Gardens is the spot shown in the photo below, with the bridge in front and Fushimi Yagura, one of the three remaining fortified towers of the Tokugawa castle, in the background. They both seem to rise from the imperial moat.
Nijubashi Bridge & Fushimi Yagura
During the militaristic period of the 1930s and 1940s, the bridge, the Fushimi Tower, and the palace grounds became a symbol of patriotism for the Japanese, so much so that when Japan capitulated at the end of World War II, the more fanatical of the imperial army officers committed ceremonial suicide to atone for Japan’s loss of honor.
Nijubashi Bridge & Fushimi Yagura
another corner of the wall
Finally, I’ve come almost full circle. I leave the Imperial Palace Outer Gardens, and head east on Harumi-dori toward Hibiya Park. A large glossy crow stands on the bank of the Sakurada-bari.
a crow on the bank of Sakurada-bari
I pass the Ministry of Justice Building on the right before getting to Hibiya Park. Two German architects wanted to combine the best of Western and Japanese architecture, but the government, in the push for modernization in the 1890s, insisted on the more Western design. What I love today are the Koinobori, or “carp streamers” in Japanese; these are carp-shaped windsocks flown to celebrate Children’s Day on May 5.
Ministry of Finance with carp flags
Ministry of Finance
At the north end of Hibiya Park, I find an inviting atmosphere at the Hibiya Saroh Beer Terrace 1949. The outdoor cafe is pleasantly situated amongst trees blowing gently in a cool breeze. Japanese families are drinking beer and eating from a limited menu. I would love to have a beer, but instead I opt for a glass of white wine and a tortilla pizza with coriander. I’m expecting to find coriander sprinkled over the pizza, but when it comes out, it’s covered with a heap of fresh cilantro. The whole experience — the wine, the pleasant atmosphere, the perfect weather, the delicious cilantro-covered pizza — makes me feel serene and joyous. It’s moments like these I live for when exploring in foreign lands.
Hibiya Saroh Beer Terrace 1949
After lunch, I’m feeling a bit sleepy from the wine, so I take a leisurely walk through Hibiya Park, which is quite pleasant.
Hibiya Park
Wedding venue at Hibiya Park
Hibiya Park
Hibiya Park
Hibiya Park
flowers at Hibiya Park
delicates at Hibiya Park
pond at Hibiya Park
Hibiya Park
I continue following the walk after leaving the park, passing the Imperial Hotel; the original portion was completed in 1890, but when it proved too small for the growing Tokyo, Frank Lloyd Wright was commissioned to add more to the old hotel in 1915. After a 7-year construction period, with many cost overruns, it opened in 1922, just as the original Imperial Hotel in front of it burned down, and one year before the Kanto earthquake of 1923.
Imperial Hotel
Finally, I walk through the theater district, passing the Tokyo Takarazuka Theater; this theater served as the Ernie Pyle Theater for American troops during the military occupation of Japan after 1945.
Takarazuka Theater
I’m not sure of the significance of the sculpture in front of Takarazuka Theater.
sculpture in front of Takarazuka Theater
Next door, and across from the Imperial Hotel, is the Nissei Theater, offering ballet and opera in season and concerts and movies at other times.
Nissei Theater
now playing at Nissei Theater
As I make my way back to the metro, I pass a little shrine stuck in the middle of the theater area of central Tokyo. It’s a strange place to find a little shrine, but it’s a delightful surprise in the midst of today’s ultra-modern concrete city.
small shrine on a Tokyo city street
Here is my route to Tokyo Station this morning: Fuchinobe > Higashi-Kanagawa > Tokyo Station (1 hour 19 minutes).
Total steps today: 18,911 (8.01 miles).
Back to work tomorrow. 😦
catbird in japan 