Friday, March 31: We have a full day orientation in Tokyo today, so two of my colleagues and I leave our apartment building at 6 a.m. to negotiate the Yokohama and Tokyo metro system. We walk 20 minutes to Fuchinobe, where we take the JR Yokohama line (local) and get off at Nagatsuta. We then switch to the Tokyo Denentoshi Line (Semi-Express) for Minami Kurihashi, getting off at Shibuya, Tokyo’s busiest station. However, we don’t leave the station, as we switch to the Tokyo Metro Hanzoumon (Express) line, getting off finally at Kudanshita. All of this takes 2 hours, door-to-door. Much of the time, the trains are packed, with standing room only. We figured this would be the case on a Friday morning, and we were right.
The Tokyo metro is like nothing I’ve ever seen. Below is a photo of the map. We are on the outskirts, indicated by the circle around Fuchinobe on the lower left quadrant of the map. Yokohama is further south and to the right on the lower left quadrant.
One thing I love so far about the Tokyo metro is that every station has a restroom! I wish the Washington, D.C. metro had the same. It is so civilized! It’s always a relief to know I can stop if I need to.
We don’t see this on the Yokohama line, but on the Tokyo line, white-gloved uniformed conductors with hats stand evenly spaced on the platform edge; they whistle and wave yellow cloths or red plastic batons to signal the platform is clear and the doors can be closed. It’s a delight to watch.
At Kudanshita’s Exit 5, we’re to turn left at the Starbucks on the left and go straight to Bellesalle Kudan, a large building, possibly a conference center. Since we’re an hour early for orientation, which begins at 9:00, we get coffee at a McDonald’s near the metro instead.
The morning session is for new teachers to Westgate. In the afternoon, the returning teachers join us. All of us are teaching in the accredited program. Westgate’s other university program is called the extra-curricular program. I believe that starts later in the month. There are nine teachers at our university in Westgate’s accredited program.
At lunchtime, I go with two of my colleagues to an Indian restaurant and have an impressive airplane-shaped naan, dal curry and a mango lassi. Some of us wish it wasn’t lunchtime so we could enjoy a beer.
After orientation ends at 5:00, and we are back on metro, we’re on the lookout for the Nagatsuta stop. We think we are going in the right direction but we’re not certain. A tall thin Japanese man with gleaming brown Oxfords, longish straight black hair and glasses which give him a nerdy-smart look, overhears us discussing this conundrum. I notice him inclining his ear toward us and then checking the metro map and counting stops on his fingers. I say to my colleagues “He’s helping us,” and he turns to us and tells us we have four more stops, saying Nagatsuta and putting up 4 fingers. When we get to the station, he says, “Here.” He is so kind to help us out without speaking any English and without us asking. I say “arigato” and bow to him.
It is rainy and cold as we leave the station and the guys are walking so fast I am practically running to keep up with them. Tobias doesn’t have an umbrella and wonders whether he should go out of his way to the big pink superstore to buy one. He decides against it, and on one long stretch on the way home, a man suddenly appears and offers a bright green umbrella to him. Two kindnesses in one day. I say, “All we need is a little kindness in the world.” I feel especially happy for these gifts, and relieved to be far away from the U.S.A., where kindness is becoming increasingly difficult to find.
Joe and I go to the 7-11 for a few things. Suddenly, Tobias, who had gone straight back to his apartment, comes to the 7-11 to warn us that the guy selling television subscriptions is hanging around the apartment building. I don’t want to pay for using the television in my apartment as I never watch it. Everything on it is in Japanese, except maybe a couple of stations, and I watch everything I need on my computer. We have been advised not to answer the door to this guy. Later, he returns, close to 8:30 p.m., knocking and ringing the doorbell, but I pretend I’m not home and don’t answer the door.
Today’s dictionary word of the day is Weltschmerz (Velt-shmerts), which is German. It means: sorrow that one feels and accepts as one’s necessary portion in life; sentimental pessimism. The word makes me think of the Japanese man on the train, who seemed a little sad and resigned, and Mary MacKenzie’s complicated and doomed love affair with a Japanese nobleman in The Ginger Tree, and the line from the novel: “There is nothing like living in a country as an enemy alien to really thin down the roster of your friends.”
I was happy to get home to my warm apartment (well, it took a while to warm it up after such a cold and rainy day), especially after the long walk in the rain in my flimsy clothes. I enjoyed a prepared dinner from 7-11 of tiny mussels with veggies on rice, spicy cucumbers, and an Asahi beer.
Saturday, April 1: Luckily we don’t have to go into Tokyo for our campus-specific orientation until 10:00, so I have a bit of a leisurely morning. I prepare my first breakfast in my tiny frying pan: scrambled eggs with grape tomatoes – except without a spatula. Another thing to add to my list. Now that I’ve bought a few things and my suitcases have been unpacked, my apartment is starting to look a little cozier.
I meet my colleagues by the vending machine at 10:00 a.m. and we’re on our way to a different location in Tokyo, the Westgate Corporation office. This time we walk 20 minutes, take the Yokohama Line to Machida (7 min), then get on the Odakyu Line Rapid Express for Shinjuku (26 min), which is standing room only. At Yoyogi-Uehara we transfer to the Tokyo-Metro Chiyoda Line (23 minutes). We get off this line at Yushima. All told it’s about an hour and 20 minutes.
As soon as we exit the Yushima Station, we go in search of a ramen restaurant. One of my colleagues has lived off and on in Japan for eight years, so he knows exactly what to look for. We find a cozy little spot where we order from a machine covered in pictures. I have no idea what I am going to get, but the picture looks enticing and a young man informs me that it has baby shrimp in it (always a selling point!), as well as some minced pork. We sit at the bar and soon the waitress brings three steaming bowls. I have ordered #2 spicy (out of 5), and it is perfect. I could have eaten a bottomless bowl of this soup. This is the best meal I’ve eaten in Japan so far. I guess since most of my meals have come from 7-11, that’s not surprising!
During lunch, I talk with a young Japanese man who works in quality control at a machine parts factory. He is heading to work after lunch. He’s very friendly and I really appreciate him for making an effort to speak English with us despite it being a struggle for him.
It turns out the Westgate office looks somewhat like an apartment made into office space. It’s a warm and inviting place for a small group meeting. Reiko, CDT (Curriculum Development and Training), is very organized and has a laid-back demeanor. We get our schedule and it looks like I’ll be teaching three classes a day on M, Th, and F, 90 minutes each, around 20 students in each class. Each of the three classes will be the same lesson, much like what I had in China, except I had four of the same class in China. That means one prepared lesson plan per day. On Tuesday and Wednesday, I’ll also be teaching the three classes, but spread over two days. It’s good, because it looks like we have planning time built into the schedule. I will also have an English Camp class to lead, which is conversation where students can just drop in. It seems I’ll be teaching until 6:30 three nights at week on M, Th and F. As a morning person, that isn’t ideal.
After our orientation, we backtrack to Fuchinobe by metro, and I peel off to visit the pink superstore, where I buy a bedside lamp (it’s really a desk lamp, but it works), a 3-drawer plastic container for my jewelry, and more hangers. When I return home, I hang up the rest of my clothes and store my suitcases in the loft. I’m feeling pretty organized. 🙂
For dinner, since I had a big lunch and am tired from our day and from lugging stuff home, I eat half of a shrimp and pasta dish I got, again from my trusty 7-11, accompanied by a slice of bread and an Asahi beer.
We have the next two days off, so I plan tomorrow to take the same metro route I took today, and visit Ueno Park to see the cherry blossoms; the peak is supposed to be this weekend. I’m using Walk #9 from my Tokyo: 29 Walks in the World’s Most Exciting City book. The main problem with this book is that it doesn’t tell you the distance or the time. The walk looks pretty exhaustive. We’ll see how that goes. 🙂